I would like to say there was no bribery involved in this photo shoot, but a picture tells a thousand words. It took a lollipop and a play with a favourite cousin to get these pictures and even that was pushing my luck!! If you would like to make the dress that Lizzy is wearing, Caroline's tutorial is here.
In today's tutorial I will show you how to:
- draft up the placket and front gathering
- draft up and sew the collar
- line the top of your dress for a simple but very neat finish
In this tutorial I use the term "Master pattern" This is just your original A-Line Dress pattern that has no seam allowances include. Trace this off and make all your alterations to this master pattern. It makes the whole drafting process much easier to not have seam allowances included. Once you are happy with the changes you have made, add back your seam allowances before cutting. I will say this over and over in this tutorial. Boring and repetitive I know, but so much better than realising you have cut out your pattern without seam allowances (I know from experience!)
Caroline apologised for her photos in her last post, I can only admit that mine a worse. As the tutee progresses you will have many insights. Among other things - I sew day and night and when desperate regularly use my flash, I am terrible at trimming threads as I go and my lawn needs some tlc and a good mow. There is photographic evidence to support all these statements! So I am really, really sorry.
Another warning. I am bilingual and ambidextrous when it comes to the whole inches/centimetre thing. I concretely use a 1cm seam allowance but in some places my brain just works better in inches. I will point this out as I go along. Sorry for any confusion!!
If you are brave enough to read on, click on the read more button...
If you check out the pictures you can see there is central placket with 4 buttons stitched on it - add 2 inches to your width for this. There are also 4 little pin tucks. I added 1/4 inch for each of these. I then added 2cm (sorry!!) for my seam allowance.
So my placket was cut as a square 6 inches + 2cm wide by 5 1/2 inches + 2 cm long.
Gathering under the Front Piece
Take your A-Line front "master pattern". You will need to draw a rectangle at the centre front that is half the final size of the front piece ie 2 x 5 inches. Draw in your seam allowances so the rectangle (ish!) shape you end up with is smaller than the completed size of your front piece. Cut this piece out and set it aside.
Cut out your linings. Use your unaltered master pattern to cut one front on a fold and two backs. I cut them so they would be 1 inch longer than the placket. I know I am sounding repetitive but don't forget to add your seam allowances to your master pattern before cutting.
Stick your front and back master patterns together and place them on a piece of paper.
Trace off the neckline and mark the width of the shoulder. Make sure you are as accurate as can be with the neck shape, starting and stopping as precisely as possible. This will result in a collar that is easier to fit. In the picture the solid line is the neck, the dotted line is the arm hole.
Following the neck curve you have drawn, mark the width of the collar:
Lets start with the Front Piece
Fold your placket in half and sew with a one inch seam allowance from the fold.
Grab your iron and iron this flat so the centre fold lines up with the line of sewing underneath. This will create the central button placket. Stitch down either side of this fold. It should look like this:
Now let's work on the collar
Sew your collar pieces right sides together, trim back the seam allowance and clip the curves if necessary. Turn them though, iron so you are happy with the curve and top stitch.
Make a small button loop. I just cut myself a little strip on the bias and top stitched it. Pin it in place on the back.
Now your only job is to hem your dress and stitch on the buttons.
I am off to mow the lawn, improve my photography skills and make a firm commitment to either inches or centimetres.
Oh... I almost forgot... Don't forget to add back your seam allowances before you cut!
And no Pippa. You can't have another lollypop!