I am still so happily amazed at the variety of permutations and combinations you can make with a good basic pattern. If you haven’t checked out Caroline’s Modern Vintage top you can find it here. We have used the same bodice pattern to make both of these tops.
Watch out next week for our Basic A line dress round up and tutorials from both Caroline and I. We'll show you how to vary this pattern to make two very different dresses
If you would like to make your own Colour Pop Tunic grab your basic bodice pattern and click on the Read More button to find out how.
- If you are not sure what a basic bodice pattern is check out Caroline’s Bodice Round up
- Our bodice pattern widens out over the hips a little. Make sure yours does too. If it doesn’t do it yourself. This tunic only has a neck opening, if you don’t do this your little one may never get into the sweet tunic you have made for them!
- During the drafting stage I always work on my pattern without seam allowances, make my alterations and then add the seam allowances back before I start cutting.
- Consider making a “master pattern” for all your basic pattern pieces. A master pattern is one without seam allowances that you never cut or alter. When the inspiration strikes, trace off your basic patterns from your master, make your alterations, add back your seam allowance, cut and get sewing!
- If you’re lazy like me and can’t be bothered adding back your seam allowances to your pattern invest in a seam allowance guide. This is a cheap and nifty gadget that is magnetic so it sticks to your scissors. You can cut any seam allowance you like quickly and easily.
Trace off the neck line and shoulder seam for your front and back.
My facing is 3.5cm wide. You can choose whatever width you like. Mark out this width so it follows the neck line curve on the back. Add your seam allowances to the shoulder and upper and lower curve. Cut one on the fold and you have your back neck facing.
You will need to work out a few measurements:
- The length of your sleeve, from shoulder tip to hem
- The width of your sleeve at the hem
- The sleeve cap height – (the cap is the curvey bell shaped bit at the top of your sleeve) Measure the height of your arm hole – for me 6 inches (sorry, I don’t know why this photo shows inches – 15cm for the metric users among us - my brain seems to flip between metric and imperial in a fairly random way!). A good cap height to work with is 2/3s of this (4inches/10cm)
In summary – look at the picture!!! It is a lot easier to do than describe!
Add your seam allowances and cut out two sleeves on the fold.
OK, let’s get on with sewing...
Sew your shoulder seams together. Finish the seams in any way you like.
We’ll do the neck facing first. I didn’t interface mine. Why? Well... I didn’t have any interfacing! You could though, just make sure you cut the interfacing without any seam allowances to reduce bulk.
Baste a line of stitches around the lower edge of the back and neck facings at the width of your seam allowance. (For me 1cm)
Using your basting stitch as a guide to turn the seam allowance of the lower edge to the wrong side and iron it flat. Take your time - you will want this to look good as you will see this edge on the tunic when it is all done. You will need to clip the concave curves to make them sit well.
Let's move on to the sleeves...
Pin your sleeves to the arm hole.
Pin from both ends. When you get to the middle there will be a fold of excess fabric we can turn into the inverted pleat.
Well, I think my work is done...
I am sure you can sew the rest without me.
All you have left is the under arm seams, side seams and hems.