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A Tutorial - How to Draft a Pattern and Make a Zippered Purse with a Flat Bottom 20/03/2011
28 Comments
 
I do like a flat bottom on a bag or purse. It  creates structure, turning two squares of fabric sewn together into something more. The whole really is more than the sum of its parts, I suppose!

I have seen some tutorials for square cornered, flat bottomed, zippered purses (phew.. that was a lot of adjectives) but they don't look quite right to me. When I thought about it for a little while, I realised that if you just cut off the corners to create a flat bottomed purse they flare out at the top. I quite like the idea of the sides being straight up and down, rather than angling out to meet the zip. So I pondered for a while and this is what I came up with:
Picture
I hope I'm not being too confusing!! If I am, let's not worry too much! How about I just show you how to make the purse?  Just click on "Read More" for the full tutorial!

Let's start with drafting the pattern.....

You will need a large piece of paper (I used two pieces of A4 paper stuck together) and a ruler.
I have designed this tutorial so you can make any sized purse you like. All you need to do is choose the width, height and depth of the purse you like. For my purse, I chose a width of 23cm, a height of 17cm and a depth of 10cm - big enough to fit my keys, wallet, phone and sunglasses.
Picture
Your completed pattern piece will look like this:
Picture
I'll walk you through the steps:
Picture
1.    At the top of the paper mark out the width of the purse. Starting at the points you have marked, draw                     two vertical lines. These lines run down the page and will be the width of you completed purse.

2.    Next, divide the depth you have decided by 2. For me this was 5cm (half the depth of 10cm). Make two                 more vertical lines at this distance (for me, 5cm) from the outside of the lines you created in step 1.
Picture
3.    Line up your ruler with the top edge of the paper on one of the inner lines. Angle the ruler so it crosses                 the outer line at the height you have chosen for your purse. Draw in this line and then repeat on the                         other side.

4.    Draw a line that joins the lower ends of the lines you have made in step 3.
Picture
5.    Draw a line parallel to the line you have made in step 4. This line needs to be the width of the purse. The                 distance between the two lines should be half the depth of the purse.

6.     I have marked in the final shape of your purse pattern. You are not quite finished yet though - you need                 to add some seam allowances.
Picture
7.     Mark in the seam allowance you like to work with. For me this is 1cm. There is only one little bit to watch.             Have a look in the picture. On the points where you have made the two triangles make sure your seam                     allowance runs parallel to the lines you created in steps 1 and 2. Cut out your pattern piece and you are                 ready to start cutting and sewing the purse!

Making the Purse......

What you'll need:
  • 2 pieces of fabric - an outer fabric and a lining
  • a zipper at least 10cm longer than the width of your finished purse
  • iron on interfacing (This is not essential but will give a nice structure to your purse. I used two home dec weight fabrics and got away without using it. I would have but didn't have any on hand. If you are using quilting weight fabric you will get a much better finish if you use it.
  • the paper pattern you have just made.
The first steps to making this purse are exactly the same as a regular zippered purse. Have a look here at our zippered purse with pockets tutorial for more details and pictures. If you have not made a zippered purse before, I would suggest you read through the whole tutorial before you start. I am probably saying something really obvious but there are no pockets in the purse we are making today!!

Using your pattern piece cut 2 from your outer fabric, your lining fabric and your iron on interfacing.
Iron the interfacing to the wrong side of the lining fabric.

Grab your zipper. Lay out one outer fabric, right side up and put the zip facing down with the zipper pull to the left on top. Place the lining fabric right side down on top. The zipper will hang out on either side of your fabric. Line up the zipper edge with the raw edges of the outer and lining and pin liberally. Here is an image from our previous tutorial to help you along. (Obviously your fabric pieces with be funny shaped triangles, but I am sure you get the idea!)
Picture
Sew these pieces together. Aim to sew as close as you can to the zipper feet - I use a seam allowance of 1cm.
Flip both these pieces of fabric back so you can see their right  sides and the zipper:
Picture
Attach the other lining and outer piece to the other side in a similar way. Outer right side up, zipper right side down with the pull to the right, lining piece with pockets right side down.
Open up the zipper so the pull is about half way down the length of the zip.
Lay out your project so the linings are right sides together and the outers right sides together. You will have something that looks like this:
Picture
Pin around the edges well. Try and push the teeth of the zipper so they face the lining. This seems to give the zipper a better look when you have finished the project.
It's now time to sew the purse together. Using your chosen seam allowance follow the diagram below:
Picture
You can see that you start and finish sewing at the base of the lining. Make sure you leave a gap to turn through the purse at the end. You sew up and over the zipper with one continuous line of sewing. If you go slowly  you won't have to worry about breaking a needle. You will need to change directions slightly at the zipper - just before you reach the zipper pivot with the needle down to do this.

Now, let's move on to creating the flat bottom. You will need to complete the next steps 4 times - twice for the lining and twice for the outer.
At one of the square cut corners, separate the layers of the bag. Match up the side seam and bottom seam. Pin them so they are flat and then stitch using your regular seam allowance.
Picture
Once you have done this for all four corners you are pretty much done! Using the hole you left in the base of the lining turn the purse through, so the right sides are now visible. Hand slip the hole in the lining and then tuck the lining into the purse outer.

You are done - your first square cornered, flat bottomed, zippered purse!! Make lots. Make them in different sizes now you know how!
Picture

Maryanne

 


Comments

sara ~~ the split stitch link
31/03/2011 17:25

Very cool, thanks for sharing! Great diagrams too :)

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Terrie Sandelin link
31/03/2011 19:58

This is very neat and it looks very nice. Thank you.

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Suma link
01/04/2011 04:52

This is so pretty! Thank you so much for sharing this tutorial.

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Anne Weaver link
03/04/2011 06:40

I love the shape of this pouch! I linked to your tutorial on Craft Gossip Sewing:
http://sewing.craftgossip.com/tutorial-flat-bottomed-zippered-pouch/2011/04/03/
--Anne

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Heidi Meyer link
03/04/2011 07:15

wonderful! Thanks for sharing!

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Lynne Sharpe link
03/04/2011 10:04

This tutorial is lovely, I will certainly be trying the pattern out, thank you!

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Tiffany
05/04/2011 11:18

This is so cute, the fabric is perfect! Must try zippers sooooon.

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Maryanne link
06/04/2011 04:55

Thanks for all your lovely feedback. It is lovely to read your comments. Sara, I have become a little obsessed with Picnik and spent lots of time there creating my diagrams - I'm glad you liked them. Tiffany, I'm glad you like the fabric. One of the students from our class made a skirt with it and I loved it so much I went out and bought some for myself! Please try zippers really soon! They aren't nearly as scary as you think and once you can put in a zipper, there are so many fantastic projects you can try!

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Coco link
17/04/2011 15:57

Nicely done! very informative and cool!

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Amanda
22/04/2011 19:15

I just stumbled onto this and will save it. What a great tutorial! I can't wait to make this.

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Lily link
22/04/2011 20:21

Love this tute! Thank you so much. I totally had to share. :)

http://sewwhatsnewfabrics.blogspot.com/2011/04/friday-night-tutorials-errnot-mine-flat.html

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Holly Day link
26/04/2011 05:32

I've never made a purse myself but since I never find one that pleases me in stores, I might give a try to your tutorial...

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Kate
24/05/2011 00:42

I have just finished two wonky ones! This is no reflection on your fantastic clear, step by step instructions. This was very fun and interesting to do. Thank you very much for sharing.

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Sue link
29/05/2011 07:31

I love small bags to put makeup and things in my purse. I have been making some much more simple lately but may try this one. It's so cute.

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Carol
09/06/2011 04:31

Really solid directions on drafting! The best part of your tute is how you explained the zipper teeth, simple but crucial to getting a nice finished look. Thanks,

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Jessika link
17/06/2011 19:50

thanks for the great tutorial! I'll have to make one of these - it'd be perfect to put jewelry in when I travel.

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yamuna
06/07/2011 04:28

wonderful tutorial
Love from INDIA

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Janice link
14/09/2011 10:26

Love the tutorial and the fabric; very clear instructions. I have decided to make one to store my tube turners. The original packaging was too awkward and I have been looking for a box long enough to fit the longest turner but not too large otherwise so now I will make a bag instead. Found your project featured at sewing.com

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Karen link
18/10/2011 05:26

Nicely done tute and a very cute bag. I too like the flat bottom so you can set the bag down while you're fishing around for the item you need and the entire bag won't go sliding to the floor. Yep, that's happened to me! Thanks again!

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Diane Wing link
18/10/2011 19:02

Thanks for the tute! I've made lots and lots of purses in my life time but have never made one with a zipper. I have never known how. I need to try this little purse and see if I can do it.

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Maggie O'Reilly link
15/11/2011 23:53

Just discovered your wonderful website on Monday - Thank You for your clear, easy-to-understand instructions. I have an industrial, flat-bed Pfaff and so could not figure out how to 'close' a zippered bag on it. Thanks to your construction method I now can. I spent Monday making the pencil case to learn the construction method. I'm in Sherkin Island, West Cork, Ireland - don't suppose you've heard of it - it's a tiny Island.
Thanks again.
Maggie

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superdry sale link
13/12/2011 22:00

How about I just show you how to make the purse? Just click on "Read More" for the full tutorial!

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Elizabeth link
15/12/2011 16:27

Thank you so much!!! Trying hard to make creative gifts this year as we've been job hunting for some time now and we need to make stuff out of what we already have. I really want to make my two and one year old girls baby doll diaper bags and the other tutorials just don't click with my brain. I THINK I can do this one! Might make a little one for my sister too for make up!

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ray ban link
28/12/2011 22:40

I recently came accross your blog and have been reading along. I thought I would leave my first comment. I dont know what to say except that I have enjoyed reading. Nice blog. I will keep visiting this blog very often.

Reply
ray ban link
28/12/2011 22:41

I recently came accross your blog and have been reading along. I thought I would leave my first comment. I dont know what to say except that I have enjoyed reading. Nice blog. I will keep visiting this blog very often.123

Reply
ray ban link
28/12/2011 22:42

I thought I would leave my first comment. I dont know what to say except that I have enjoyed reading. Nice blog. I will keep visiting this blog very often.123

Reply
buy seo link
17/01/2012 05:12

I can not believe that everything is so simple

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Sara
23/02/2012 04:46

This is just what i was looking for since time!!! Thank you so much, i just can't wait to makò it. The fabric is really cool! Thank you and congrats! Very clear explanations. Sara from Bergamo, Italy

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    Who are we?

    Caroline and Maryanne are sisters who live in Sydney, Australia. We come from a long line of crafting women, who have all had the desire to create. We hope to continue this family tradition,  spark this passion in our children and share it with friends. We run  a sewing school where our main focus is to help our students discover the joy of creating beautiful but simple things and the joy that comes from being part of a crafting community.




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